PARIS — After revealing on Friday the departure of its artistic director of 11 years, Y/Project has pulled its spring 2025 show.
The brand had been scheduled to present its runway show at 8:30 p.m. on Sept. 29, according to the provisional calendar released by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode in July.
The French brand canceled its planned show following the surprise announcement of longtime creative director Glenn Martens’ departure. The shakeup follows the passing of Gilles Elalouf, the cofounder of the brand, last June. It is understood his brother, Daniel, has inherited his stake in the brand as the company moves into a transitional phase.
Y/Project was meant to return for spring 2025 after being forced to sit out the fall 2024 runway season to focus on internal investments.
Its exit isn’t the only last-minute change, however.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin, who showed in New York last February as part of a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation and had been anticipated for a return to the runway on Sept. 29, has also been removed from the calendar.
Other changes include the cancelation of Benjamin Benmoyal’s Sept. 25 show and Gauchere, which will stage a presentation on Sept. 26 instead of a runway format.
Rabanne remains on the calendar, scheduled for 5 p.m. on Sept. 25 with a runway show from longtime designer Julien Dossena even as the Puig-owned brand undergoes a management shakeup.
Two major houses will stage shows despite being without creative directors. Chanel will hold its show at 10:30 a.m. Oct. 1, despite being without a designer following the surprise departure of Virginie Viard in June, and Dries Van Noten will stage the first women’s show without the founder on Sept. 25. The namesake designer retired in June, and his studio team is set to produce the women’s spring 2025 collection.
But Paris showgoers will have plenty of big names to pay attention to. Among the highlights of the week is the return of Gabriela Hearst, who staged her spring 2021 show in Paris. She will show on Sept. 30.
New names on the official schedule include Niccolò Pasqualetti, one of eight finalists for the LVMH Prize this year, who presented off-calendar for the past two seasons. He will stage his show at 11:30 a.m. on Sept. 29.
Another off-calendar name who has moved to the official schedule is Alainpaul by designer Alain Paul. The designer, with a decade of experience working for labels including Vetements and Louis Vuitton, showed independently last October.
Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino will be one of the most anticipated shows of the season, with the former Gucci creative director staging his first runway show for the Roman fashion house on Sept. 29.
Some marquee names missing from the calendar are Givenchy, which also sat out the men’s runway season awaiting the hotly anticipated announcement of its next creative director; Marine Serre, who showed her women’s and men’s collections as a guest designer at Pitti Uomo in June, and independent design duo Victoria Feldman and Tomas Berzins, who are shuttering business operations of their Victoria/Tomas label to focus on collaborations and other design projects.
Off-White has decamped to New York this season, with Ib Kamara’s latest collection set for Sunday and Avellano is also sitting this season out.
The week will open with a slate of buzzy young talent, including Weinsanto, Pressiat and Vaquera, among the shows scheduled for Sept. 23.
There are 106 presentations and runway shows on the official calendar. As is tradition, Louis Vuitton officially closes Paris Fashion Week on Oct. 1, but Coperni will host an event later that night with an “experience” at Disneyland Paris’ Fantasyland.
