NORWELL — The next presidential administration may not even include a first lady, but it’s that historical aspect of the presidency that’s the subject of an upcoming presentation at the James Library & Center for the Arts: “First Lady Fashion.”
“Although this isn’t a discussion about politics, we will talk about history, economics and world affairs,” said Cathy Phillips, who is giving the presentation. “The first ladies can yield much influence in our country and their use of fashion reflects their times, their platforms and their personal choices.”
“First Lady Fashion” takes place at 1 p.m. on Tuesday, Oct. 8, at the James Library & Center for the Arts, 24 West St. in Norwell. Tickets are $10.
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“These are interesting, funny and sometimes sad stories,” Phillips said. “There’s Elizabeth Keckley (personal dressmaker of Mary Todd Lincoln), Ona Judge (personal maid to Martha Washington), Rosalynn Carter’s recycled gowns, Dolly Madison’s scathingly low-cut bodices, and Jackie Kennedy’s infamous pink suit.”
Phillips, who started designing and sewing her own clothes as a teen, has always had an interest in style.
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Before retiring, Phillips worked for Osher Lifelong Learning Institute at UMass Boston, a program offering enrichment classes and other activities for older adults in Greater Boston.
“I taught a class about women designers who had changed the course of fashion, and I discovered the fascinating story of Elizabeth Keckley,” Phillips said.
Phillips wondered what other interesting stories she might find.
“Many of us are fascinated by the first ladies — they’re our version of royalty.”
Martha Washington made a point to not look too ‘queenly’
Phillips’ presentation begins with the “first” first lady, Martha Washington, who carefully chose to wear domestically made fabrics like wool and linen and to not appear “queenly” during the American Revolution.
“Martha’s favorite dressmaker, Ona Judge, was enslaved by the Washingtons but escaped their Philadelphia home to flee to New Hampshire,” Phillips said. “Unfortunately, she was relentlessly pursued by President Washington’s staff.”
Nevertheless, Judge remained in New Hampshire. She married a free Black sailor, with whom she had three children. Though never legally freed, Judge remained in the Granite State for the rest of her life.
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As for more recent first ladies, Phillips looks to Michelle Obama’s unique style, which somewhat broke the mold for first lady fashion.
“For many of us, Michelle Obama was a breath of fresh air, bringing attention to up-and-coming, young and diverse fashion designers like Jason Wu and Isabel Toledo,” Phillips said. “She made bold choices and looked great in anything she wore.”
First ladies have always been in the spotlight, and from Martha Washington on, they have used the fashion stage to support certain industries and policies, promote diplomacy and express their own individuality, Phillips said.
