RICKYYWONG’s designs on the runway during London Fashion Week
Courtesy Gala Netylko
Hong Kong’s aim of closer integration with the world’s fashion capitals was upended by the pandemic. Now, Fashion Hong Kong is looking outward again, staging a runway event on the eve of London Fashion Week.
20 February saw Angus Tsui, Bettie Haute Couture, RICKYYWONG, and ZIDI take to the runway in Shoreditch’s Protein Studios.
“This is our first time after the pandemic and it’s so important for us to be going out again,” Joey Ko, Director of UK, Nordics and Ireland at Hong Kong Trade Development Council explains backstage. “This show in London is about PR exposure and compared to pre-pandemic it’s even more important now. The response from our guests and media reinforced how important it is for us to be here again after all these years.”
The government of Hong Kong is no stranger to supporting the creative sector. As of February 2024, it has allocated HK$3.5 billion ($450 million) under various funding schemes. This benefits about 18,320 SMEs by creating 31,260 jobs and more than 86,800 nurturing opportunities across 650 projects in Hong Kong, mainland China and overseas. In the 2024-25 budget, the government is set to inject about HK$2.9 billion (370 million) into supporting more projects in the creative, arts, and design sectors.
A model wearing Angus Tsui backstage at Hong Kong Fashion event during London Fashion Week
Courtesy Nici Eberl
“The government is very generous,” Ko admits, adding that the HKTDC puts a lot of resources into supporting and nurturing young designers and creatives in an effort to “make its community more global.” The group show opened with 12 futuristic looks from Angus Tsui who combines sustainable denim and vegan leather in an homage to legendary Swiss artist HR Giger. Models wore giant gloves made of claws or featured grotesque protrusions. In January, Tsui launched a collaboration with DHL which featured a wallet and two bags made from upcycled DHL clothing.
Showing the breadth of design, Bettie Haute Couture’s capsule focused on precise tailoring which disrupted proportions in a rich pallet of fawns, creams, and beige. “This season I drew inspiration from the simplicity and functionality of the Bauhaus,” says Bettie Jiang, a graduate of the London College of Fashion, who started her womenswear line in 2019.
All pieces are made in-house by hand by a small team of five. Operating on zero-waste, Jiang runs a tailoring line for menswear and suiting. “My customers are all from the business sector or HNWI so I’m not worried about the market. They all want tailor-made looks for meetings and are willing to pay for high quality, bespoke, and individual pieces.”
Bettie Haute Couture is helmed by Bettie Jiang and based in Hong Kong.
Courtesy Gala Netylko
Rickyy Wong’s pared-back designs —also made by zero-waste tailoring—were a contemporary take on city life. Bomber jackets, long coats, and suits in waxed cotton or luxurious alpaca wool point to a restrained yet intriguing aesthetic.
From chic to maximalism: the show closed with a punchy line-up from ZIDI which included fake fur jackets and fun, asymmetric silhouettes. Founder Nathan Moy worked for Maison Margiela Artisanal in Paris before returning home. “I think Hong Kong can do more to be more recognized on the global stage, there is still a disconnect and it seems difficult to make connections here, compared to my European experience in London and Paris,” he explains.
A number of designers from Hong Kong have been growing in recognition recently. Rober Wun, Self-Portrait, and Ponder.er have all shifted the visibility of the region. “I see myself as an international designer and there’s so many different characters and styles in Hong Kong. I hope that I can lend my internationalism to this community,” adds Moy.
Back in London, it’s this scope that impresses the audiences. “It’s refreshing to see how Hong Kong creatives embrace modernity with their own twist,” says Karen Binns – global fashion director from Ten Magazine. After the show, Binns, who was impressed with the “workmanship and innovation” at the showcase, adds: “The experiential take on texture and design from these designers is a welcoming addition to London Fashion Week.”
Runway finale at London Fashion Week from ZIDI which is founded by Nathan Moy
Courtesy Gala Netylko