Finale at Mithridate’s London Fashion Week runway show featuring a new M logo designed by the new creative director Daniel Fletcher
Courtesy Mithridate
It’s all change at Chinese brand Mithridate. In January, the Guangzhou-based label ushered in a new creative director, appointing British designer Daniel Fletcher, swiftly followed by a campaign starring British It-girl Alexa Chung (dressed in shorts, a striped Oxford shirt, and a fluffy cable-knit jumper). On 21 February, it was time to see the fruits of this partnership on the runway with a show at London Fashion Week.
Billed as “British heritage meets Chinese craftsmanship,” this is certainly a novel idea. Gone are the embellishments and expressions of Chinese culture under former creative director Demon Zhang who exited in 2024. Instead, this collection foregrounds British eccentricity, designed for characters that leap from the pages of a Richard Curtis screenplay.
Fletcher, who also serves as creative director of horse racing event Royal Ascot, is quintessentially British and therefore the ideal channel to explore how Chinese craftsmanship brings English ideas of dress to life. “I wanted to create something that spoke to my heritage but make use of the resources and expertise Mithridate has, that’s not already in the market,” Fletches says backstage among mood boards featuring The Rolling Stones, Diana Princess of Wales, and David Hockney.
Despite the challenges, coming on board late in the day, dealing with time differences, and half the team being in China, Fletcher has managed to pull off the impossible. A collection that, from the top down, sets an exciting new benchmark for Chinese brands. Little wonder CEO Tina Jiang looked pleased backstage.
Here, Fletcher outlines highlights from his debut collection for Mithridate.
Finale at Mithridate’s Autumn/Winter 25 runway show at London Fashion Week
Courtesy Mithridate
A new Motif
Like all new hires, Fletcher set his stamp with a new logo that centers around the M insignia. First unveiled in January, the new typeface is inspired by antiquities that would have held the semi-mythical mithridate remedy created by Mithridates VI Eupator of Pontus in the 1st century BC. As Fletcher explains backstage after the runway, he also looked at Jermyn Street shop signs and Savile Row to unite the house’s new points of reference. On the runway, these new motifs and emblems are seen in double-knit jumpers, vests, and shirting.
Chinese craft
Since his appointment, Fletcher has been keen to advocate for the Chinese craftsmanship at the heart of Mithridate which has seven standalone stores across Shanghai, Guangzhou, and Shenzhen. “I wanted to be sure to incorporate Chinese craft and to move beyond the negative perceptions of the made-in-China label. I’ve been so impressed with all the team, the quality, and the craft. That was one of the things I said when I came onboard, that I only wanted to do this to a high level, and that’s what we’ve been able to do,” he explains. In particular, he highlights a striped Harrington jacket that is hand-embroidered using a traditional Chinese technique that is local to Guangzhou.
Look 1, a personal favourite of Mithridate’s new creative director Daniel Fletcher
Courtesy Mithridate
Look 1
The opening look was Fletcher’s personal favorite. Here, contexts are reconfigured and layering is an act that’s less about pairing and more about juxtaposition which creates a ladylike silhouette. “I love this Lady Diane vibe, which is very feminine and ladylike, but then is challenged by the bomber jacket and woolen zip-up hoodie,” he says. Essentially, Fletcher is playing with expectations and as he amidst, loves the idea of people wearing these separates “how they like.”
Spots and stripes
Daniel Fletcher loves stripes. And is partial to the odd polka dot too. This means spots and stripes, with lush cable knits, are key codes in Mithridate.20. One glance at the evocative moodboard that has nostalgic images of a young Mick Jagger and Keith Richards dressed in stripes of all persuasions (from rugby shirts to pinstripe suits) and polka dots are pinned beside other tropes of Britishness such as cable knit jumpers and chic tailoring. Texture weighs heavily in delivering this mood too as horizontal and vertical strips clash, fluffy cable knits and leathers. It’s nostalgic in influence, contemporary in execution.
Stripes are a key feature of Daniel Flectcher’s design codes at Chinese brand Mithridate.
Courtesy Mithridate
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