If fashion is our second skin, is skin our first fashion?
Across fashion eras, skin has been concealed, accentuated and revealed as a marker of class, environment and function. Yet, today, within the realm of nudity in the fashion industry, something new is happening — skin as a material itself.
From tattoo prints to tactile prosthetics, skin interfaces have arrived in unison with the industry’s uptick in underwear as outerwear and sheer dressing — indicating a willingness to express our corporeal forms. Skin materials also share close ties to the aesthetics of digital dressing and avatars. Digital skins are sold by the billions in video games and virtual avatars, with no need for tangible garments, show us new ways to interpret the definition of clothing. An example of this is Paris-based designer Rohan Mirza who recently dropped a pair of 3D-printed, silicone trousers complete with skin tattoos; drawing inspiration from video game characters.
Some designers liken the use of skin materials to the collective feeling of being exposed and vulnerable while others see it as a result of breaking free from dress-code boundaries. Ukrainian brand TTSWTRS, founded by Anna Osmekhina, creates mesh skin tattoos to celebrate human physicality as an art form. Elsewhere, UK-based brand Natasha Zinko has become synonymous with its muscle suits which signify human strength, confidence and resilience.
While skin materials are being used to celebrate the body and satirically provoke societal norms, they can also cause strong reactions. Skin-ified style conjures a feeling of disorientation for viewers. This sentiment feels most prominent in the beauty sphere with artists like Tilda Mace creating otherworldly sunburns, scars and body augmentations and Japanese nail artist Yuri Osuka designing skin nails.
In the digital world, skin-inspired fashion is taking on new forms with the use of AI and 3D rendering. UK-based visual artist Éamonn Freel designs conceptual skin garments which become evanescent to the body while China-based artist Youwei Zhu, the founder of UV-朱 , designs speculative footwear and accessories made of human flesh.
So, how are skin interfaces changing our perceptions of fashion materials and what do they signify about fashion culture today?
Below we speak with Natasha Zinko, Yuri Osuka, Anna Osmekhina and Youwei Zhu to get their take.
Skin-inspired materials and prosthetics are growing in popularity at the momen. Why do you think that is?
Anna Osmekhina: People are currently in a very vulnerable state, experiencing significant transitions. This makes them feel almost exposed like they are naked. As a result, there is a strong desire to present themselves authentically, to fully express who they are. The movement in digital culture and reduced censorship on social media platforms also allows us to dive deeper into human physicality as a form of art.
Natasha Zinko: We are all starting to feel freer, more confident in our own bodies, less afraid to break dress-code boundaries and embrace our natural naked state. Body-inspired garments have become a way to experiment with social norms. Technically, you are covered, clothed, but, visually, you are naked, following the rules but at the same time drawing attention to what is being concealed.
Youwei Zhu: Skin is our first piece of clothing and the barrier that protects the body. Its importance is self-evident, but perhaps, because we now have more materials to choose from, we’re led to ignore this “natural clothing.” So, I wanted to go back to the beginning, explore the plasticity of skin and rethink the most primitive look of life.
Yuri Osuka: The thing which interests me about skin-inspired nail art is the fact that skin is something that covers our entire body and we see it every day without even thinking about its existence. However, when a creator purposefully uses a skin motif in beauty or fashion, it can cause a strong reaction and sometimes make people feel uncomfortable. Presented within a different context, we seem to forget that skin is all over us in every moment of our lives. I also think, in most situations, we get nail art or wear clothes to cover up our skin, so quite possibly, our brains get confused when we see it on our nails or clothes. It has a disorienting effect and challenges our expectations of design.
When did you first start experimenting with second skin and what inspired it?
Anna Osmekhina: We began our exploration into second skin mesh and body suits in 2013. Our primary inspiration has always been tattoos — choosing a design, deciding on the placement and the colors used. It’s a unique and intimate process. It manifests one’s personal experiences. We wanted to experiment with how this concept of tattooing could translate into fashion, creating a form of expression that is both personal and artistic. The acceptance and celebration of our bodies in their natural state have always been a core inspiration for us.
Natasha Zinko: My Fall/Winter 2023 collection “MONSTER” was all about how the right garment can make you feel stronger, more confident and bring out your inner monster. For me, the exaggerated muscular prints expressed that idea perfectly; how clothing can augment our moods and attitudes. In my Fall/Winter 2024 collection “SPACE RACE,” I explored space-age futurism, with sleek, retro silhouettes and polished pastel colors. The foot-printed boots provided a way to contrast and ground the modernist glamour; to remember the animal nakedness we have come so far from.
Youwei Zhu: All of my concept designs are done using 3D tools so, I’m constantly learning as I create. I usually start with the shape design, which is related to biology and the human body. During the creation process, I will browse a large number of biology images, human bones and other materials. I make the designs conform to the biological criteria, so that they seem reasonable, but real. This process is usually the most complex and time-consuming. After all the previous work is done, I “skin” these concepts, which is my favorite step. For a moment it feels like they are really coming to life.
For your particular design process, where do you see second skin going next, and what are you looking forward to experimenting with next?
Anna Osmekhina: We started as a conceptual collaborative project with a focus on innovative designs. Tattoos remain a significant source of inspiration for us. We want to continue experimenting with beautiful forms and expressions of the body through art. Our goal is to work with artists worldwide to find the most striking and authentic ways to showcase the body.
Natasha Zinko: Over the past six months, I have experimented with 3D-printed organic shapes, exaggerating body parts like the breasts and spines to create two performance looks for Doja Cat. What I am most looking forward to is developing past graphic prints by incorporating dramatic volumes to see how I can reimagine the human body into something more alien.
Youwei Zhu: I have a lot of ideas about skin, I will not only focus on the skin but on flesh, blood, organic matter, bone and all things closely related to life. To be honest, I don’t have any special expectations. I like to focus on the moment. Sometimes expecting too much will affect the rhythm of my creation.
