Shein is now the most popular fast-fashion brand in the world. The brand launched in 2008 as other fast-fashion brands, like H&M and Forever 21, were dressing millennials in college.
The combination of the rise of TikTok, as recounted by the BBC, and the lack of in-person shopping became its recipe for success in 2020. It grew over 1000% between 2019 and 2023, raking in over $32.5 billion in 2023 alone.
What’s happening?
Shein has been making headlines for its attempts to list itself on the New York Stock Exchange and London Stock Exchange. However, there has been pushback on both due to concerns about links to China and the company’s ESG practices.
Multiple organizations have launched investigations or made accusations about Shein‘s corporate behavior, Sustainability Magazine revealed. The Italian Competition Authority launched an investigation into Shein regarding its misleading advertising claims regarding sustainability, Greenpeace shined a light on the irresponsibility of producing disposable clothing, and there was backlash regarding labor standards at some of its factories.
Why is Shein’s greenwashing important?
Since these accusations, Shein has created a Global External ESG Advisory Board and Regional Strategy and Corporate Responsibility Committees, donated $5.3 million to the Africa Collect Textiles Foundation, launched collections using deadstock materials, and developed a new polyester recycling process.
However, many people are saying that this is a drop in the bucket compared to the damage the brand does every year.
“Assuming that carbon dioxide emissions were Shein’s only negative externality and assuming that Shein had to pay $100 per metric tonne of carbon dioxide, then its $5.3 million donation represents 1/3 of 1% of what Shein should have to pay humanity for the societal costs of its annual carbon dioxide emissions,” Ken Pucker, Professor of the Practice at The Fletcher School at Tufts University, wrote on his social media, according to Sustainability Magazine.
What’s being done about Shein’s greenwashing?
Shein started off 2025 by appointing a new global head of sustainability, Mustan Lalani.
“The scale and complexity of this challenge are immense, but so is the opportunity to set a new standard for sustainability in the industry,” he shared in a LinkedIn post. His goal is to reduce Shein’s pollution by 25% by 2030, according to Sustainability Magazine.
However, Shein launches 2,000 to 10,000 new pieces on its site every day and emitted 18.4 million tons of carbon dioxide in 2023 alone, according to Shein’s Sustainability and Social Impact Report. While 25% would be great for a smaller company, Shein needs to take more responsibility for its environmental impact — from its use of textiles to its labor practices.
It’s important to educate yourself more about greenwashing so you can spot it in the wild. You can also make a difference by thrifting instead of buying new, repairing clothing instead of discarding, and unfollowing brands that are not transparent about ESG practices.
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