Fashion
Sky-Eagle Collection Takes Flight At New York Fashion Week
Feb
Native American fashion designer Dante Biss-Grayson debuted the new Red Line Collection with help from special guest models like Ashley Callingbull.
Last Saturday, Osage designer Dante Biss-Grayson made history at New York Fashion Week with his Sky-Eagle Collection as the first Native- and veteran-owned brand to appear on the official Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Fashion Calendar. To mark the occasion, special guest models took to the runway, including the likes of Ashley Callingbull (Enoch Cree), Nikki Apostolou (Mohawk), and Nathalie Wajashk-Restoule (Anishinaabe), alongside other Indigenous women who embody the strong feminine power of the new Red Line Collection. I was honored to be among the lineup of models and got the behind-the-scenes scoop on the momentous occasion.
Dante Biss-Grayson (PHOTOGRAPHY: Darren Thompson)
“Being part of the CFDA NYFW calendar is a milestone—not just for Sky-Eagle Collection, but for Indigenous and veteran representation in fashion,” says Biss-Grayson, who made his first NYFW appearance in 2023. “It’s an honor to debut a collection that reflects the strength, resilience, and beauty of Native fashion on such a prestigious stage. What is particularly special is that this opportunity was tied to a benefit event supporting a nonprofit, aligning with our mission to uplift our communities. It’s all about breaking down barriers and proving that Indigenous artistry has a powerful place in the global fashion industry.”
The Sky-Eagle Collection showcase was part of the Break Free NYFW event, aimed at transforming the runway into an advocacy platform for mental health, substance use, and recovery. It’s a fitting match, as tribal communities are disproportionately impacted by these issues. Callingbull, who became the first Indigenous woman named Miss Universe Canada last year, is particularly passionate about these topics as well as authentic representation.
The Red Line Collection (PHOTOGRAPHY: Michael C. Remache)
“It’s important to be seen, heard, and recognized for the talent we have on Turtle Island,” she says, referring to North America. “It’s inspiring for the next generation to see Indigenous designers, models, makeup artists, hair stylists, and designs at an event of this caliber. Representation done properly matters and is extremely powerful, because it opens the door for someone else just like you.”
Biss-Grayson understands the healing power of fashion, having turned to art to help him process the traumas of multiple military deployments. He began designing clothing five years ago, always with an eye on creatively expressing his Indigeneity with nuanced nods toward complex concepts. The Red Line Collection, for instance, is all about pushing boundaries.
Kate Nelson in the Red Line Collection (PHOTOGRAPHY: Darren Thompson)
“The collection is inspired by the idea of crossing limits—whether those be personal, societal, or artistic—and redefining what those limits mean,” he says. “The bold geometric pattern is rooted in my Osage heritage and symbolizes strength and resilience. Each piece in the collection represents a journey of breaking free from constraints and stepping into something transformative. The use of the ‘red line’ is a metaphor for walking the edge, challenging conventions, and reclaiming space for Indigenous voices in a world that often tries to sideline us.”
That translates to flattering frocks in the namesake hue as well as couture creations, like the one-of-a-kind dress donned by Callingbull to close out the show on Saturday.
Couture creations (PHOTOGRAPHY: Michael C. Remache)
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“It’s always an honor to walk for Sky-Eagle Collection because of the powerful meaning behind Dante’s designs,” she says. “I love the patterns, vibrant colors, and ombre effects that make the clothing look so dreamy, but most importantly, I love how flattering it is. Above all, I’m proud to collaborate with a brand that also gives back to community.”
Beyond any achievements or honors, it’s those contributions to community that matter most to Biss-Grayson, who’s on a mission to carve out space for Indigenous talent in the fashion world. Much like his designs themselves, the show was about so much more than just fashion—it also featured dance performances by Gigi Sieke (Osage) and Madeline Gray Goodfox (Osage/Pawnee/Sac and Fox/Potawatomi), powerful music by Indigenous artists, and readings of his own poetry.
Madeline Gray Goodfox (PHOTOGRAPHY: Michael C. Remache)
“Indigenous representation at NYFW is crucial for breaking stereotypes and celebrating the diversity of Native cultures in contemporary ways,” he says. “It’s about showing the world that Indigenous art and design are not relics of the past—they’re thriving, evolving, and innovating. Representation at this level also creates visibility for Native issues, supports economic sovereignty for designers and artisans, and inspires future generations to dream big.”
PHOTOGRAPHY: (Cover image) courtesy Michael C. Remache
