BRICS+ Nations Attempt To Redefine Global Fashion Through Closer Ties

For decades, the fashion capitals of Paris, London, New York, and Milan have dominated the global style narrative. Yet, as the industry grapples with shifting cultural dynamics, environmental concerns, and the demand for inclusivity, new voices are emerging from unexpected corners of the world. At the heart of this shift is the BRICS International Fashion Federation (BRICS IFF), a coalition established during the BRICS+ Fashion Summit held October 3-5, 2024 in Moscow. Representing Brazil, Russia, India, South Africa, Indonesia, Egypt and other growing markets, the Federation aims to redefine global fashion through collaboration, sustainability, and cultural heritage.

“The arrival of the BRICS IFF marks a pivotal moment in the fashion industry’s evolution,” said Nichole Bess, Founder of Noir Fashion Week in New York. “This convergence heralds a significant shift in global fashion, characterized by increased diversity, representation, and inclusivity. Emerging markets will drive trends, collaborative platforms will facilitate knowledge sharing, and sustainable practices will gain prominence.”

Her words are echoed on the other side of the globe, in Sri Lanka, by Ajai Vir Singh, Managing Director of Colombo Fashion Week: “Currently most of the Designers in the Emerging markets find themselves restricted to a limited marketplace and under-exposed. It’s not only challenging but impossible at times to reach international markets or matured fashion markets.”

Vig Singh continues: “[BRICS IFF] not only gives designers scale, but also knowledge, collaborative opportunities, facilitate networking, showcase and open new markets. This experience also helps them break the mold, exposure to bigger markets and is able to bring a fresh creative product to international fashion markets. ‘Fresh’ is always welcome in Fashion and this could be an interesting addition to the global fashion landscape.”

A New Alliance for a New Era

The BRICS+ Fashion Summit isn’t merely a networking event; it’s a forum for creative and economic exchange, bringing together designers, policymakers, and industry leaders from over 100 countries. As Camila Ortega, CEO of Nicaragua Diseña noted, “Fashion is not just about aesthetics. It’s a reflection of culture and passion that transcends borders. Collaborative platforms like BRICS IFF foster relationships that can redefine global creativity.”

This spirit of cooperation was echoed by Stephen Manzini, founder of Soweto Fashion Week (South Africa), who sees immense potential in cross-border partnerships. “Imagine multi-brand stores or joint exhibitions showcasing South African and Russian designs. These initiatives can create a lasting cultural and economic impact,” he said.

Ali Charisma, Director of Indonesian Fashion Chamber, noted that “an organization like the BRICS International Fashion Federation offers invaluable opportunities for collaboration, support, and growth for up-and-coming designers. It can help nurture talent, provide mentorship, and create a platform for emerging voices to showcase their work. Additionally, it can foster greater awareness of sustainability and ethical practices, while encouraging diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry.”

Can BRICS Match Global Heavyweights?

The success of global fashion hubs like Paris and New York is not merely the result of creative ingenuity—it’s the product of decades of sustained investment in fashion education, innovation, infrastructure, and marketing. These cities host globally renowned fashion schools, attract billions in investment, and maintain robust logistics networks that support their status as style epicenters. Realizing this, BRICS IFF began with a multicultural education program mentored by fashion school professors from 10 countries, including Italy and the Netherlands.

In contrast, many BRICS nations are still grappling with systemic issues that hinder their ability to compete on a global stage. From underdeveloped supply chains and limited access to funding to inconsistent regulatory frameworks, these challenges often stifle the growth of local designers.

Bess noted that institutions like the BRICS International Fashion Federation could play a critical role even beyond their member nations: “Institutions like the BRICS Fashion Federation can support emerging American designers through global exposure, mentorship programs, cultural exchange initiatives, and sustainable fashion practices. Access to emerging markets will bridge gaps and create opportunities.”

“Creating an organization like the Fashion Federation offers numerous benefits, especially in fostering a unified platform for designers, brands, and fashion professionals. Such an organization can provide crucial support for local and regional talent, helping them gain international visibility and access to global markets. It can also facilitate knowledge sharing, mentorship, and resources that empower designers to grow their businesses sustainably and ethically,” shared Shirene Shnaneh Rifai, Founder and CEO of Jordan Fashion Week.

A Celebration of Cultural Identity

Despite the skepticism, BRICS nations are making strides in showcasing their cultural richness on the global stage. At Moscow Fashion Week, held alongside the Summit, designers from South Africa, China, Russia, and other emerging fashion hubs presented collections that married heritage with innovation.

South African brand Tshegofatso By Design reimagined traditional African loincloths with a grunge twist, while China’s KenSun modernized cheongsam-inspired dresses with contemporary motifs. Russian brand SaiJamin incorporated elements of Circassian folk costumes, and Yakutsk’s INNIKI explored spiritual themes through designs representing material, air, and guardian souls.

Sustainability remained a key theme. Indonesian brand RAEGITAZORO’s use of leftover materials and Moscow’s by /DAS/ reliance on upcycled fabrics stood out, but these efforts also underscored the need for scalable solutions that can make sustainability accessible across the industry.

The Road Ahead

“The decentralization of fashion authority will empower designers from diverse backgrounds, fostering creativity and innovation,” Bess observed, while she also emphasized the importance of fostering underrepresented talent: “Through Noir Fashion Week, we elevate underrepresented voices, showcase diverse talent, and connect continents through fashion. Our alliance with the BRICS IFF strengthens this mission, propelling the industry toward inclusivity and sustainability.”

However, she and other industry experts recognize the significant hurdles ahead. From the lack of deep-rooted infrastructure to the skepticism surrounding the scalability of sustainability initiatives, the road forward for BRICS fashion is steep.

“The BRICS+ Fashion Summit has laid a foundation, but the risk is that BRICS fashion will remain a niche interest rather than a global force,” said Sunil Sethi, Chairman of the Fashion Design Council of India.

Ultimately, while the Federation represents an exciting opportunity for emerging markets, it also raises important questions about what it will take to achieve lasting impact. For now, BRICS IFF stands at a crossroads, with the potential to either redefine global norms or remain on the periphery of an industry still largely controlled by established powerhouses.