Just see the anti-viral, viral success of Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen at The Row. The designers first commandeered the internet last year when they banned phones from their resort 2025 runway — the proverbial closing of the gates, avoiding all ‘content’, oxymoronically, broke the internet. They have been doing this since; though this week, they upped the ante. Not only was photography barred at the show, but there was also no assigned seating. Some of the few images from the show that took over the social media conversation featured power broker editors standing or sitting on the floor. The clothes were effectively nowhere to be seen — or talked about.
The internet is your friend, sometimes
Indeed, embracing the internet can be a double-edged sword. The brand may take the spotlight, but the collections seldom do. The perfect balance to strike is perhaps featuring a breakout product, otherwise people remember the show but none of what they saw in it.
At Tod’s in Milan, newish creative director Matteo Tamburini built a collection around the craft and artisanal savoir-faire that sits at the heart of the label. As guests entered the venue, they were welcomed by Bruni on a pedestal, standing as a statue and holding a giant needle while wearing a recycled leather frock. It was equal parts perplexing and enthralling, but the coup worked.
Tod’s is not the kind of label that puts together Instagrammable runway shows. Yet the image of Bruni will be one of the most memorable of the season, and it certainly was one of the most talked-about moments coming out of Milan Fashion Week. Tamburini is finding his stride at the label, while, commendably so, finding new ways to bring attention to it. Time will tell whether the stunt worked to promote the collection, which this season was “stronger, warmer, more nuanced”, according to Vogue Runway’s Tiziana Cardini.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest show for Christian Dior featured a swing, a hovering pterodactyl, a few comets and smoke machines, plus some iceberg-like sculptures. Talk about a show. At that scale, zooming into the fashion — what we’re all there for — becomes a challenge, though Chiuri was smart to spotlight the return of the famous J’Adore Dior tee from John Galliano’s tenure. It remains an internet mood board darling, and, pterodactyl aside, it quickly became the breakout story of Chiuri’s latest effort.
