How new sustainability guidelines impacted London Fashion Week

Launched by the British Fashion Council in 1993, Newgen is a talent incubator for emerging designers that offers funding, mentorship and the chance to show their collections at London Fashion Week.

“A lot of the young designers that come through the Newgen program are already thinking about the foundations of their business to make sure it’s sustainable for the future,” said Caroline Rush, chief executive of the BFC. “It’s not additional criteria they have to adhere to — it’s more about creating a framework to tell their story.”

That story is evolving in response to shifting industry pressures. E.U. regulations are pushing brands toward stricter sustainability compliance, while challenges around financing production are leaving emerging labels vulnerable. The E.U.’s Green Claims Directive, set to go into effect in 2027, for instance, is set to require brands to provide verifiable evidence of their environmental claims. Meanwhile, the Extended Producer Responsibility scheme, proposed in 2023, is making brands financially accountable for the entire lifecycle of their products while incentivizing circular design and waste reduction.

“Many young designers used to benefit from production deposits, but not many stores are offering those now,” Rush said. “It’s not that designers aren’t taking orders — it’s that they need to find the finance to produce them.”

Many designers, however, are effectively adapting to the new sustainability guidelines. Icelandic designer Sól Hansdóttir, who showed her 6-year-old namesake label at Copenhagen Fashion Week before bringing her collection to London as a Newgen designer this season, said, “We don’t deserve all the resources we want sometimes, and having those limits actually helps shape the work. I find it an interesting challenge.”

Helen Kirkum, whose 6-year-old namesake footwear brand is known for its circular approach to design, echoed the sentiment. Kirkum, who is also part of Newgen, opted out of presenting a collection this season. “We’re focusing on the products that already exist,” she said. “Why does something only have to last one season? Our shoes are timeless, and it’s good to show the longevity of a product.”

On Sunday, Newgen designer Paolo Carzana showed his 5-year-old ready-to-wear collection at a British pub. “Every single part of my pieces is considered,” he said. “[We exclusively use] organic rubber, natural dyes and ethically sourced threads — there’s no deviation.”

He added, “A piece you keep forever has real economic value. Overproduction and throwaway culture aren’t commercial.”

For her part, Anna Foster hosted an intimate presentation for her 7-year-old E.L.V. Denim line on Thursday. “Our presentation reflected the evolution of our brand and our zero-waste ethos,” she said. “All of our pieces are handcrafted with longevity in mind. And because each piece is upcycled, it is entirely unique.”

Foster addressed the challenge of competing in a market where sustainability is often used as a marketing buzzword. “It’s great that brands are recognizing the need to incorporate circular practices, but true sustainability requires more than an upcycling capsule here and there,” she said. “Hopefully, new Green Claim Directives will prevent larger brands from misusing terms like ‘reworked’ and ‘deadstock’ in misleading ways.”

By embedding sustainability into London Fashion Week’s criteria, the BFC is acknowledging a reality that many of its designers have already embraced. The framework is less of a restriction and more of a codification of principles that are becoming essential for survival in fashion today.