Ultra-wide-leg jeans, denim coordinates, and deep, dark washes made a striking impact at New York Fashion Week. Designers showcased their Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collections, seamlessly blending denim with everything from elegant dresses and bold pops of tomato red to sleek minimalist suiting and cropped leather jackets.
Despite the slowdown of viral fashion cores and aesthetics, the New York runway was home to several distinct fashion tropes.
R13 delivered the fit of the moment—the bootcut—in a collection that introduced a goth element to the brand’s signature downtown New York vibe. Dark floral denim, inky blue slim jeans and cuffed and cropped jeans showed off witchy black boots. A Chanel-like denim jacket was trimmed with chunky silver chains.
R13
The ’90s skate-inspired jeans in Coach’s presentation were crafted from repurposed secondhand denim. The mostly light wash baggy jeans puddled over sneakers adorned with charms and pompoms. Some were layered beneath 1920s style day dresses.
“My vision for fall was to ground the collection in all the things that make Coach so distinct as a fashion house: our heritage materials and palette, our commitment to repurposing and ‘re-loving’ secondhand garments through craft, and our belief in the power of community and self-expression,” said Stuart Vevers, Coach creative director. “There’s a clear, cohesive idea here in terms of materials, silhouette and styling, and that comes from knowing who we are and what we stand for.”
Coach
Sandy Liang kept the Polly Pocket aesthetic alive in a collection inspired by childhood. Fur trimmed the hems of ankle-skimming jeans, a cropped jacket and matching miniskirt.
Cinq à Sept joined the boho revival with a collection of dark wash denim pieces styled with suede jackets, Penny Lane coats, studded belts and fringe handbags. Wide-leg sailor jeans, a button-front circle skirt and several versions of Canadian tuxedos—from a suede-trimmed shirt and matching jeans to denim skirt suit—were part of the ’70s story.
TWP embraced a similar bohemian spirit, adding in a touch of western. Denim culottes, jodhpurs, button-down shirts and a denim top with a kerchief-like neckline co-mingled with leather riding boots, flannel tops and leather and fur jackets in rusty hues.
Dark wash jeans grounded several collections including Khaite and Tory Burch, which presented a structured utilitarian jacket. Ulla Johnson showed a dark jean caplet jacket and matching denim trousers. Tibi experimented with celestial dye effects on dark denim, as well as jeans that zipped off into Bermuda shorts.
Tory Burch
There was also some simply good denim. LaQuan Smith made a big statement with ultra-wide-leg jeans. Pleats helped emphasize the jeans’ fullness. L’Agence offered a scaled down version in a collection that also showed skinny jeans tucked into tall boots and bootcut jeans mixed with colorful leather tops and jackets.
Calvin Klein referenced French workwear with a faded blue jacket and jeans in its return to the runway. Black jeans and baggy light wash jeans were also part of the minimalist collection. Eckhaus Latta played with grayscales and presented an abstract interpretation of animal prints on its jeans. Gabriela Hearst balanced men’s bootcut jeans with slim denim jackets. One option came in a vibrant cobalt blue. Tanya Taylor continued to surprise with proportions with a range of vivid indigo denim.
